The Bean is Back

Squeaky Bean

1500 Wynkoop #101

Denver, CO . 80202

303-623-2665

www.thesqueakybean.net

Mikey

I’m going to get all gushy here. Remember that the Squeaky Bean was where we had our first dinner out together? Sure, it was a different location, but it’s still special. This is like our song or something. Except it’s also a different menu. Same owner and name, so that counts. I realize I shared these sentimental feelings by talking like Archie Bunker as I vented my views on certain aspects of the Olympics. But, really--gender matters!

Edith

We had the first reservations of the night last Saturday at the Bean. And we still got there early. It's not what you think, though. Yes, I am nearing 40 but I'm not dining out at 5:30 on a Saturday for no good reason. We had tickets to a show at Red Rocks that night. So there. Kung Pao! So we get there early and it's raining so they let us in early. 1.75 points for chivalry. While waiting we took in the atmosphere of their new digs. What an ideal space at 15^th and Wynkoop. They were able to secure a lease in one of the most prime, desired spots in Denver on the corner ground floor of the former Saddlery building. This space is full of windows; open and spacious with a cozy loft feel. Cozy is not an easy feeling to accomplish in a loft. I like the chandeliers made from silverware, the huge oval bar, the open kitchen and all of the unique antique fixtures, half of which I cannot identify.

This space is a departure from their former space on 33^rd and Tejon, which was a mere 4 blocks from my front door. My husband and I were some of the first Squeaky Bean customers and we fell in love instantly (with the food, that is, I'm not going all 50 Shades here). The former space was cozy in a whole different way – as in small. Cafe small. So small, in fact, that they were operating without a kitchen! The chef was able to make delectable magic with a hot plate and a whole lot of genius. When we heard they were moving and would actually have access to a kitchen we couldn't wait for the possibilities. It's bittersweet, really. We loved having them in the neighborhood and are proud to say we knew them when - when our fellow diners were Highland folk, rather than the LODO crowd with tight pants and fake bulges. It feels like seeing a great band in a dive bar with 20 other people and then seeing them again when everyone else has caught on and they're playing a stadium show. I'm that kind of asshole. I only drink microbrews.

Mikey

Personally, I like arriving at a restaurant when it’s easy to find a parking spot and we get our pick of tables in the still empty room. I realize for some this might feel like the beginning of the end. Based on the space alone, I already like this Squeaky Bean better than the first one. It’s so grown up. I love, love, love the cookbooks attached to the menus! Such great conversation starters.

Edith

Once seated, our concise menu arrived clipped to old cookbooks. Those 1960s and '70s style cookbooks. The waitstaff really loves it when you try and order a Campbell's soup dish out of the Campbell's cookbook. They nearly fall down laughing. Actually, our server didn't have too much of a sense of humor. I tip extra when the waitstaff laughs at my jokes, even if it's more of a sympathy laugh. The menu is divided into three categories: Vegetables, Seafood and Meats. Each of the three sections starts with small plates. The plates get bigger (and more expensive) the farther down the list you go. An entree runs about $25. You're paying for quality here, not quantity. Squeaky Bean is a restaurant where you will have a very unique dining experience with complex flavors that are creatively prepared with high quality, local ingredients. You won't find a big 'ole bowl of anything here.

Mikey

That cheese cart rolling around the dinner room is total cuteness. I should have tried that. Bring back the olives in the curry sauce! Alas, the menu only made me wish I was a foodie. But the truth is, I am not. I may not be grown up enough to dine here.

Edith

I am going to call my dinner companion Mikey, after that kid in the commercial who wouldn't eat anything and then died of eating pop rocks and soda. Mikey took one look at the menu and said she didn't want any of it. But then said 'oh, o.k. I'll have the chicken'. There is a name for someone who eats only fish, someone who eats only meat, and someone who eats only vegetables. What's the name for someone who doesn't like anything but food truck tacos? The chicken arrived and she wouldn't eat that either. She was eyeing my scrumptious pork loin and I had my fork poised to stab her the second she went for it. Luckily, it didn't come to that. My pork was perfectly prepared with peaches and cooked fruit redeming burnt onion jus. I enjoyed both the corn panna cotta (aka corn log) and mustard greens. I ate half of Mikey's chicken and enjoyed that as well. The chicken was a very innovative twist on fried chicken with a fried skin garnish that my husband has probably had dreams about. Maybe that's why he drools in his sleep. The chicken comes with a fabulous food trifecta: avacado mousse stuffed artichoke. It's like a Ding Dong for food dorks. We passed on the ingenious cheese cart, although, every single cheese sounded divine. And those rolls, oh those rolls!! Sex rolls is what they were. Buttery and truffley and garlicky and cheesy.

Mikey

I love how gracefully you handled it when I asked if we could switch entrees. See? I need a tiny drink and I’m a fussy eater. Where’s my bib? I’m sorry…that friend chicken was not for me. I did not understand that artichoke with like, what? Reconstituted artichoke on it? At least that was edible.

Another Gary Coleman, please! Fitting perfectly with my Archie Bunker persona of the evening, the menu offers a small beer of five ounces only called the “Gary Coleman” after the diminutive TV actor and celebrity. For one who rarely drinks, this little sipper was right on the money.

Edith

For dessert I ordered a plum cake (I curse you again, cooked fruit!). It was yummy but not as good as Mikey's Fluffernutter. Does that sound weird? It ain't, unless you think peanut butter, marshmallow and caramel are weird. It's heaven in my mouth. Seriously good. Rich as hell but good. On another visit I sat at the dessert bar, watching all of the desserts come out. As soon as I saw gold flecks – seriously, folks, gold flecks – sprinkled onto the Gilded Cherry dessert I knew I had to have it. It was more beautiful than anything. Slidey but lovely. Then I squinted my eyes and saw that it resembled a gilded turd on my plate. Every restaurant has a turd dessert. Don't believe me? Maybe I'll start a new blog just to prove it. Coming soon: turddessert.com

Mikey

Usually dessert can save it for me, but again, no. That Fluffer Nutter was rich beyond reason.

At least by the time we left, I felt that the waiter did not hate us and might have just been nervous. He had a way of seeming annoyed if we were not ready to order or had a question about the menu. I almost apologized to him once. He should have thanked us for having some people to practice on before the night got busy.

Edith

And, oh yeah, Bill Murray ate here.

Mikey

Décor: Fabulous. So curious to see inside of the old saddlery building that I’ve walked by a million times in the past 20 or so years. Those huge wooden beam ceilings are gorgeous.

Waitstaff: No new BFFs here.

Food: I’ve never wanted to be a foodie so bad in my whole life.

Saucy Talk: Size matters. Bigger isn’t always better.

Tip: If you want to be surprised by your fried chicken—as in the skin comes as a separate garnish, for starters—then this is the place for you!

Everything But The Kitchen Sink

The Kitchen - Denver

1530 16 Street 

Denver, CO. 80202

303-623-3127

http://thekitchencommunity.com/the-kitchen-denver/

Chrissy:
Not that we were sick of each other, but Jack Tripper and I decided to invite another friend along for this next review. After having read our previous Restauviews, Janet was curious to join us and we liked the idea of Three’s Company.

So, off to the Kitchen the three of us went via Denver Bcycles on a warm spring evening.

Jack: 
o.k. fine, I'll be a dude in this scenario.  Located in the former Gumbo's spot, The Kitchen is in an ideal location on the corner of 16^th and Wazee. If you can get a table by the window, you have one of the best seats in town for people watching. We are pretty sure we saw 2 prostitutes before our entrees arrived.

Chrissy:
This was not my first time at this new location, and I have been to the Boulder location of the Kitchen many times. My first thought looking at the Denver menu was: seafood?! I thought the Kitchen was all about local farmers and ranchers and recycled grease. We’re a loooooong way from any ocean. I thought of the Kitchen in Boulder as a place to get John Long pork and produce from Cure Organic Farm, not oysters that were flown in. I suppose if I liked seafood, I would be excited and not judgmental. Instead the emphasis here seems to be creating a sophisticated dining out experience—not trendy, not thematic--just good food in a comfortable space.

Jack:
The space is lovely; spacious, warm and inviting with exposed brick, dark wood floors and soft chandelier lighting. The kind of place that should have been named Linger (rather than the place that is named Linger but at which you don't feel welcome lingering).

The Kitchen Denver is the sister restaurant of the highly acclaimed The Kitchen in Boulder. Much of Denver has been excited to get our own The Kitchen without the 36 corridor drive and trustifarian drum circles. Both restaurants call themselves Community Bistros. According to their websites, they have coordinated with the community on everything from the construction of their restaurants to the beer they serve. Their stated mission is “creating community through food” and they are committed to environmentally-friendly practices. I like that. The only thing better than serving delicious food in a beautiful, relaxed atmosphere is making your patrons feel good about supporting you. Supporting community and being environmentally-friendly helps to take the guilt out of gluttony. I enjoy feeling as if I'm doing good in the world while I'm stuffing my pie hole.

Chrissy:
We started ordering appetizers to share and kept up with the triple-dip approach through the main course and then dessert. Does anyone else even remember that beet salad? I loved it, but then we discovered the goat gouda gougere delicacies and the salad was quickly shoved aside. I personally thought olives marinating in olive oil was too messy, but we still managed to eat them all. The hummus bruschetta & sprouts was divided up three ways, with not a crumb left on the plate. The same cannot be said of the Long Farm Pork Terrine & Dijon. It turns out Janet is a foodie—she will eat anything! Jack spread a bit on toast while asking, “Is this head cheese?” It isn’t.

Jack:
We actually had a bit of trouble ordering. Nothing jumped right out at us as a must-have from the entree options. Luckily they have a wide variety of interesting starters. They also offer quite an array of seafood as both starters and platters. But please don't confuse their seafood platters with those that could be served by someone with a paper pirate hat. These are for true seafood lovers – mussels, clams, oysters, fish and crustaceans all cooked (or not) to perfection, I'm sure. They even offer caviars. We stuck with the landfood, however:

-Marinated Olives: a variety of olives in a slightly sweet, tad tangy oil marinade.

-Hummus Bruschetta & Sprouts: You really can't go wrong with hummus. Topped with sprouts, tasted just like Spring.

-Goat Gouda Gougere: Or cheesy poofs, as I liked to call them. Our favorite, by far, of all the foods we sampled. Goat Gouda in a pillowy, slightly salt encrusted puff pastry. It melted delicious cheesiness right in your mouth. Wonderful flavor and texture! We could have eaten a dozen. Each.

-Roasted Organic Beet Salad: with hazelnuts & chevre, this was pretty much what you would expect – freaking deliciousness.

Then things got a little weird from there. Maybe it was the wine or the beautiful Spring weather that made us feel a little carefree, ambitious, adventurous. We threw caution to the wind and ordered the Long Farm Pork Terrine & Dijon as well as the Bone Marrow with capers, parsley and toast. When I was younger (like this time last year) I could be cajoled into going streaking after a couple glasses of wine. Now I just get dared into ordering strange meats. It was at this point that Chrissy and I realized that we are not very adventurous eaters. Sorry. We like white meat chicken. Janet, however, triple dog dared us to branch out and since she was our guest and we didn't want her to think we were weenies, we caved.

Chrissy:
I have not had crispy chicken skin like that since I was a child—I’ve missed it! I hardly remember the quinoa salad that was our other entrée. It was about this time I wondered what had become of the bone marrow—did we order it or not? There had been a lot of discussion about this. In the strange lineup of things it came out when one would expect a palate cleanser. I took one look at that dinosaur bone and the nearly gelatinous marrow and declined. Jack again smeared a carnivorous substance on toast and gobbled several bites before declaring, “It’s disgusting.” Janet also nibbled at it. I should mention that my dining companions are athletes, or at least athletic people, who enjoy pushing their physical limits, whereas I am someone who is well aware of her limits and can merely spell athlete correctly.

Jack:
The Pork Terrine was probably great for those who like such things. I thought it tasted like a Missouri picnic. It was made worse by the fact that Janet wouldn't tell us what it was so I assumed the worst. We found out later that it is merely pork shoulder and chicken livers but in my mind, I had built it up to be eyeballs and assholes. Now the Bone Marrow intrigued me. I've long heard it called prairie butter and recently read about how flavorful it is. When the waitress served it, however, she made the fatal mistake of giving us the instruction to just 'smear it' on our toast. I wasn't able to get the word 'smear' out of my mind as it was in my mouth. Bone Marrow is flavorful indeed but also gelatinous and very smeary. So.... onto the chicken

The Wisdom Farm Chicken Char Grilled was served with harissa, cumin, yogurt, cucumber, couscous & almond salad. I stopped myself from asking the server if our chicken had been happy and had other chicken friends on the farm, like in the Portlandia episode. I didn't have to ask. Our chicken had definitely had friends, you could taste it. He or she was so incredibly deliciously char-grilled and the couscous side was a perfect match. I would definitely come back for the chicken. Our other entree was Asparagus and Quinoa. It was also actually a very nice compliment to the chicken and would have been a fine vegetarian item but as a main dish it couldn't quite hold center stage. It would have won an Oscar as a supporting actor but could only ever be a nominee for best actor, had this been the food Academy Awards.

Chrissy:
There was barely a word between us as the sticky toffee pudding melted in our mouths, followed by spoonfuls of pot au chocolat. Knowing that we had an uphill bike ride back home meant we could eat all the dessert we desired.

Jack: 
All in all, we had a wonderful dinner. Great ambiance, attentive but not oppressive service, expertly and thoughtfully prepared food, happy chickens and happy customers. I would absolutely recommend this restaurant. There is a little something for everyone and it would be a nice setting for a special occasion. And, as long as it's not a formal occasion, I highly suggest Bcycling your way there on a sunny Spring evening with friends.

Décor: Stylish, but homey in a way that led to a 3-hour dinner. Love those light bulb chandeliers!

Waitstaff: Not too fussy and able to answer our silly to serious questions about the food

Food: Non-foodies and foodies will not go hungry

Saucy talk: Are there prostitutes in LoDo? Discuss.

Tip: Just order the chicken already!

Paxia to the Maxia

For our next review we bring you:

Paxia

4001 Tejon St. Denver

720-583-6860

http://www.paxiadenver.com/

Princess Hilltop:
Paxia: Not a feminine product or an antidepressant. I just wanted to be clear on that because the name lends itself to an idea of a product that could make you feel more fresh, more feminine, more optimistic. Fresh and optimistic, I will give you, Paxia. Maybe even a tad feminine. The décor is lovely. I actually snapped a photo of the chandeliers in the private dining room for my Pinterest boards. Studies show that looking at chandeliers while eating food makes the food more delicious. And by studies, I mean popular opinion. And by popular I mean mine.

Princess Prudence:
Dear Readers: We have a Special Guest Alert. When we started this restaurant blog a few months ago, we discussed the idea of inviting random guests to join us—would it be local foodie celebs? Husbands? Girlfriends? Surprise, it is Princess Hilltop's daughter, Miss Marvelous. And while she is still too young to write (or type) her review for this blog, this gal is a member of the Clean Plate Club! No complaints from her. She gobbled up those chips with a little salsa like a hungry toddler at lunchtime! Her cheese quesadilla disappeared right before our eyes and at least half her milk in that cute giraffe cup (wisely covered with a lid) was nearly finished….with an easily mop-able amount sprinkled on the floor.

Princess Hilltop:
When I first heard about Paxia, my second thought (second to pills and tampons) was “Really? Another Mexican restaurant in Highland?” We need another Mexican restaurant like we need another crazy old man in the GOP primaries. I was pleasantly surprised, however, to find that Paxia really does fill a niche in our corner of the world. Many Mexican restaurants in the neighborhood are small, mom and pop run taqueria joints. I'm all for it but we have plenty. On the opposite end of the spectrum is Lola, which serves more upscale Coastal Mexican to Lodo / Lohi hipsters and professionals who go as much for the cocktails and hopping bar patio as they go for the food. Paxia is somewhere in the middle of this spectrum, without being a chain.

Princess Prudence:
Now for a little review…but first a little history: Paxia is in the Highlands neighborhood where we both live, workout, send our children to school, and do a lot of dining out. Since its founding, the collective Highlands neighborhood (historically distinct neighborhoods such as Highland, Potter Highlands, Sunnyside, and more, are now typically referred to as the Highlands) has been dominated by different ethnic groups. The Italians left perhaps the most distinctive mark around here and a few vestiges remain in local eateries. Later the area was predominantly Hispanic, and still is, in part. There are several Latin American, South American and Mexican food restaurants in the Highlands neighborhood and the local buzz has been that Paxia is a most welcome addition.

Princess Hilltop:
I have a confession to make here before talking about the food. I went to lunch with Prudence, yes. But then the next night I returned for dinner with my husband. I find it impossible to review Paxia on the basis of lunch only now that I've experienced dinner as well. Sorry, Your Highness, I kind of cheated on you. Please forgive me. It meant nothing, I promise, and it will never happen again. I was drunk (really I was a little bit after two glasses of wine). The delicious enchiladas you ordered made me do it so it was your fault, really, when you think about it.

Princess Prudence:
Finally, the promised review: Paxia is Mexican food, not Tex-Mex. I’m not craving it like I do Tex-Mex. The green chile on my chicken enchiladas had a fresh tangy taste, and the salsa served with warm tortilla chips also had a nice zing in every bite. We split a trio of tamales—each one double the size of my wrist—that were plenty flavorful but not one stood out for me. Ordinarily I consider dessert an essential part of my meal, but since it was lunch and we had to set a good example for Miss Marvelous, we skipped it. I won’t become a regular at Paxia, but will probably come back for dinner and to try a “Prickly Margarita” (made with cactus juice) and to check out the dessert menu.

Princess Hilltop:
Lunch: I think I am much more enthusiastic about Paxia than Her Royal Highness. I really, really enjoyed my lunch (and enjoyed dinner even more). I had ceviche which was delicious but not the best I've ever had. But once you've eaten ceviche in Peru with a view of the sea, it is unlikely that you'll get comparable ceviche in the middle of the U.S. I don't fault Paxia for that. The Mile High Salad was piled a mile high with shredded carrots, chicken and cabbage. Sort of a Mexican slaw with a slightly tangy (but not too!) sauce. Rather than a side dish, it can easily stand in for an entree salad that is light, simple and delicious. Finally, a Mexican restaurant with a truly healthy option! We split the trio of Tamales, my favorite of which was the pork. I loved Prudence's Enchiladas Verde. So much in fact that I took them home. The Verde sauce was addicting! The perfect savory zing.

Dinner: (Pru, just skip this part) I returned the following night to a packed dining room. Apparently, it was only their second busy night since opening in August. They were obviously not quite prepared for the onslaught so I am more than willing to let choppy service slide. The food made up for the frenzy. I usually skip the chips but these are so thin, crunchy and just salty enough, the salsa the right kind of spice and freshness that I threw caution to the wind, arteries be damned! I even requested an extra basket of chips with our guacamole, which was divine. Now this is the kind of guacamole I could base a religion on (or at least a cult). Table side fresh with just the few basic ingredients; and none of them too much to overpower the avocado. Perfection. My husbands Poblano Cream soup was amazing, especially for a guy who doesn't like poblanos. I don't know what he was thinking but I'm glad he was thinking it. He also had the traditional entree, Chiles en Nogada. Who knew chiles, raisins (which, in my opinion ruin everything) nuts, beef and pomegranate could all meld so wonderfully into mouthwatering bites. I ordered the salmon in plantain leaf. Wonderful flavor. It had just the right amount of smokey chipotle sauce that soaked into the very appropriately portioned rice. The plantains were some of the best I've ever had (including my travels in Central and South America). The salmon had wonderful flavor but could have been improved with a little less time on the grill. It was a huge fillet. I would have been happier with a smaller portion and a lighter texture. We didn't go in for dessert or signature cocktails but we will next time. Next time for sure.

Princess Prudence:
At least I don't brag about it when I go back to a restaurant with someone else, if you get my fresh and optimistic meaning.


Décor: Bright and cheery with cozy fireplace
Waitstaff: Seriously, was the waiter the owner?
Food: Mexican, not Tex-Mex
Saucy Talk: Puh-leez, there is a young child here!
Tip: Appetizers are ample, so one to share is plenty if everyone is also getting an entree

It's a Twofer! (Asian Cajun and D Bar)

Asian Cajun

2400 West Alameda Ave.

Denver 80223
303-922-0699
http://www.theasiancajun.com/index.html

Brandine Nguyen:
Have you ever left a restaurant, leaving platefuls of food? I now have. And the Asian Cajun had so much promise, in my imagination. Without doing any prior research (my first mistake), my curiosity led us there. I was picturing a fusion of two of my favorite cuisines; something like, oh I don't know, General Tso's Crabcakes or Crawfish Kung Pao. Delicious, right? I was reminded of when I used to have a cooking club with several friends and we would have an annual fusion dinner where we would literally pick two different cuisines out of a bag and come up with fusion recipes for them. I still have a special place in my heart for my Chinese – Southern creation: Chickety China the Chinese Chicken Pot Pie.

Lady Fanny of Omaha:
You know how sometimes you see a sweater or a scarf at Target and think, “Microfleece is just as good as cashmere, and more budget-friendly, I’ll buy it!” But then you actually try on cashmere at a local boutique and you know you will love it like you will never love polyblend? D Bar is cashmere, Asian Cajun is not.

Brandine Nguyen:
Rather than several fusion dishes, The Asian Cajun serves two completely different kinds of food, reflected in the two-sided menu; one side lists the Cajun dishes and on the other side are the Asian dishes. Here was my second mistake: fusion is one thing, but I try and stay away from restaurants that serve two completely different types of cuisine because I'm not convinced that most staff can master both. Think about Piccolo's in South Denver that makes of mess of both Mexican and Italian food or, of course, the Taco Bell / Pizza Hut and KFC / Long John Silver combos. Speaking of Long John Silvers, you are reminded of it when you walk into the Asian Cajun. The booths are on a pseudo pier. That, combined with the drop tile ceiling and industrial tile floors, makes one feel like they are dining in a Bayou 7-11 packed with Asian people (and a couple of rednecks at the bar). We did enjoy the groovy ambiance that a BeeGees and Isaac Hayes soundtrack provided but even Barry Gibb couldn't make the food taste any better.

Lady Fanny of Omaha:
That said, it seems absolutely unfair to judge a seafood restaurant when going in I knew I did not like or even eat seafood. It’s like going to see a Chuck Norris movie—I start out with no love. Yet in both cases—Asian Cajun and Chuck Norris—there is a devoted fan base, so who am I to deny them or call them names?

Brandine Nguyen:
I tried the only two items on the menu that were actually fusion: Asian Cajun Crab Dip and the Asian Cajun Style Boiled Shrimp. The crab dip was overpoweringly crabby. Rather than deliciously delicate crab meat, I was overwhelmed with a salty, fishy crab; maybe one who lived to a ripe old, grouchy age and had been out of the water too long and was pissed off about it. The Asian Cajun Boiled Shrimp was just that. Boiled shrimp with Asian and Cajun spices. It came in the shell, in a bag, in a bowl. That's just too many layers between me and my dinner. Now, anyone who's anyone has a shrimp philosophy and here's mine: I like my shrimp like I like my men – naked and clean. I grew up too land-locked to appreciate faces on my seafood. Whenever I am served a whole seafood I have a brief moment of panic that is opposite of that anxiety dream where you walk into a classroom naked except it's “Oh shit! My dinner is fully clothed what do I do? What do I do?!” Here's the other thing about shrimp – I'm a mother of two young children so when I go out with grown-ups after the kids are in bed, the last thing I want to do is clean more poop. I am a firm believer that shrimp, like my children, need to learn to wipe their own asses. I just don't have the time or the patience to de-nude and clean my own dinner that I am paying for; it seems like something that you would hire someone to do for you behind the scenes – like a chef! But I have to say that Isaac Hayes did make the shrimp peeling seem a little more intimate as if my shrimp and I might need a private booth on our dock.

Lady Fanny of Omaha:
First bite of Asian Cajun dip served with neither Asian or Cajun tortilla chips: “Oh, this is gross.”

Brandine Nguyen:
Lady Fanny of Omaha's dinner wasn't any better. The Fried Rice: oily, the Chicken Satay: greasy, the accompanying peanut sauce: oily. We felt almost bad for the young, sweet waiter (even if he did keep forgetting about us) as we explained to him that, no, we didn't need a box. And that maybe we just weren't Asian Cajun type of people after all (as if we'd aspired to this). All I can say is “Sorry Lady Fanny”. But I'm always up for culinary adventure and how does the saying go? An adventure is an inconvenience rightly considered or some such thing. So, a culinary adventure is blindly choosing a fusion joint on East Alameda and walking away hungry but still laughing.


Asian Cajun Décor: Long John Silver’s
Asian Cajun Waitstaff: friendly, though tardy and a bit clueless
Asian Cajun Food: For us, inedible. But truly, the place was full of people happy to devein their own shrimp, shell their own crabs and so on.
Asian Cajun Saucy Talk: We all know ethnic humor only works when a group makes fun of itself, so this sign on the kitchen door must be hilarious to the regulars: “Wong Way”
Asian Cajun Tip: That harsh interrogation lighting over the tables must come in handy for those peeling their own crawfish and seafood.

D Bar

1475 E. 17th Ave.

Denver 80218
303-861-4710
http://www.dbardesserts.com/

Lady Fanny of Omaha:
After a 45-minute standing room only wait at D Bar, two entrees, two desserts, two glasses of wine, a cup of tea, and a cozy blanket, a realization that it was worth the crosstown trek for a later-than-anticipated dinner.

Ode to D Bar:

You have never let me down
When I have a night on the town

When I had a little belly ragin’
For a taste of something Cajun,
There you were.

Brandine Nguyen:
After the Asian Cajun debacle, we were not just hungry but (as they say in the Bayou) Hongry. Lady Fanny suggested D Bar where there was a 45 minute wait in a tiny space. But the tiny space was next to a heater and in view of the lovely little pastries in the dessert case. D Bar is a niche for those who are looking for late night light bites with a good dessert and glass of wine. The kind of place you might go for an after show date or if your original dinner option fell through (because of a weird fusion experiment, for example). Apparently, a lot of people go there for their birthdays, too. D Bar is a place where they enlist the patrons to sing happy birthday to diners. Not quite Chili's annoying but almost after the second time. The food was good, though. Simple, smaller plates are served with reliable flavors. My cheese melt and tomato bisque soup hit the spot since it was getting late; Definitely nothing I would wait 45 minutes for but the company was good (awwww) and the wine and dessert were very delicious. The dessert is really the draw here. Think upscale milk and cookies and a dessert they call “Molten Cake Thingy Everybody Has... (Steamed with a truffle inside!)” That is seriously the name of the dessert on the menu. Their wine list is equally as funny and creative. I remember some wine described as the feeling you get when running from monsters? Or something like that. Fun little place. Oh – and they give you blankets! Perfect with your milk and cookies. If only they would change the birthday song to a lullaby.


D Bar: Décor: Clean and simple
D Bar Waitstaff: Well, our waitress laughed at all our jokes so….we love them!
D Bar Food: Yummy! Small plates entrees leave plenty of room for their ample desserts.
D Bar Saucy Talk: Size doesn’t matter.
D Bar Tip: Underdressed and feeling chilly? DBar has you covered with baby blue (albeit polyblend) blankie wraps.

Pinche You!

Pinche Tacos a.k.a Tacos, Tequila, Whiskey

1514 York St. 

Denver, CO. 80206

720-475-1337

http://pinchetacos.com

In the spirit of Siskel & Ebert, Lucy & Ethel, Dale & Brennan and other well-known duos, we give you our next Restauview:

ReNe'e:
Can street food translate to restaurant food? That was the question for us at Pinche Tacos. Arguably the most popular street food truck at this past summer’s Civic Center Eats, Pinche Tacos recently opened a brick-and-mortar location just off Colfax Avenue.

Vanessa Van Hasselhoff:
My strategy going into this holiday season was to go into it at a deficit. With the aid of a recent stomach flu, I would go into Gluttonmas underweight so that I would arrive in 2012 with my normal body mass index. Why does it matter and who cares? It doesn't and no one, but it's a little game I like to play in my head so that I ensure I'm not enjoying life too much. No need 'cause I just stuffed my face hole with tacos. NOW I know why they are called Pinche Tacos, as in 'damnit, there goes my Holiday Deficit Plan. I ate too many pinche tacos'. Depending on who you ask and which link you click on google, Pinche is an expletive equivalent to 'fucking' or roughly translates to 'kitchen help'. Apparently, the name is offensive enough that the food truck turned brick and mortar restaurant on Colfax was not allowed to put Pinche on their signage so don't go looking for it. Even though you should go looking for it.

ReNe'e:
One difference from the street food version is that there is more on the menu. For lunch and happy hour daily, there are appetizers and desserts and a larger selection of tacos, then on weekends there is a brunch with their take on pancakes, waffles, hash, and of course, tacos.

Vanessa Van Hasselhoff:
The tacos are great. We sampled a large variety and by variety I mean nearly the whole pinche menu. We started with the guacamole that at first bite was wonderfully tangy and flavorful but we soon agreed that it was too tangy and too flavorful. We both like our guac with less flavor. The best guacamole, in my opinion, is an avocado in a bowl. The chips were light, crisp and salty – addictive. We tried so many tacos that I'll just give you the run down:
Queso a la plancha: crispy cheese with more cheese and limey tomatillo salsa. Simple and delightful
Carnitas: the pickled red onion and avocado crema added zest to what was not the most flavorful pork I've ever had but the flavors together worked very well.
Pollo a la crema: This was my favorite. I have this thing for creamy chipotle sauce that I shouldn't speak about in mixed company. I will want these again. Soon.
Rajas con crema y maiz: smokey and spicy roasted poblanos. One was enough but I was so glad to eat that one.
Pescado: battered fish (I should have known better) with avocado & pineapple guacamole just felt mushy in my mouth. The flavors and textures fought with each other and the texture won.
Vieiras verdes: the first bite of scallop just tasted a little too fishy. Scallop tacos were more intriguing sounding than tasting.

ReNe'e:
After trying six of the 11 different types of street tacos during lunch the other day, it can safely be said to stick with the classics (roughly the first six tacos on the menu) since the fish and seafood tacos were lacking. The pescado taco was a mushy mess where the flavors did not come together. On the other hand, we did not leave a trace of the queso la plancha or carnitas tacos, and the polla a la crema with spinach and a creamy chipotle sauce was declared a favorite. Since it was lunch, neither of us ventured to the bar for the extensive tequila selection.

Vanessa Van Hasselhoff:
There are only a couple of these tacos I would want to eat a whole plateful of on their own, but that is the beauty of street tacos; you can sample a variety and the combination of flavors and sauces make a fun and delicious meal. Don't be too distracted by the term 'street tacos' though. At an average of more than $3 a pop for tiny tacos, a lunch bill can rack up quickly. These aren't the fresh corn tortilla and who knows (or cares) what else kind of tacos that Mayans sell you in the villages of the Yucatan for a single peso (which are the single best tacos in the world) but then I guess those would be more like jungle tacos.

ReNe'e:
Like many restaurants these days—truck or no—Pinche Tacos boasts of using locally-sourced ingredients as much as possible and it was impressive to see this extended to…pop rocks. Remember the fizzy candy? Apparently someone (Ian’s Inventing Room) makes a version right here in Denver and they sprinkle it on the Mexican Jarritos strawberry and mandarin soda floats for dessert. Local meets over-the-border.

Vanessa Van Hasselhoff:
Yeah, we tried both deserts, what of it? Churros with a chocolate dipping sauce were a little too doughy in the center but the strawberry ice cream float with locally made chocolate pop rocks was so fun and refreshingly satisfying. Street tacos aren't the kind of thing I eat very often but I will drag my husband back there and would love to try their brunch. They also have a great selection of whiskeys and tequilas that I would not love to try. Go check it out and see what translation of 'pinche' you come up with.

Décor: Clean and simple, with a hint of Mexican detail.
Waitstaff: Clean and simple
Food: We’ve become regulars in the time it took you to read this
Saucy Talk: These tacos are pinche great!
Tip: The joke’s on you if you look for a sign that reads, “Pinche Tacos” out front. It turns out that in Denver, you can drive around in a truck that reads, “Pinche” in enormous letters and park it for anyone to see. However, you cannot get a liquor license and have this word on your building or menu so look for the kicking donkey and the words, “Tacos Tequila Whiskey.”