The Bean is Back

Squeaky Bean

1500 Wynkoop #101

Denver, CO . 80202

303-623-2665

www.thesqueakybean.net

Mikey

I’m going to get all gushy here. Remember that the Squeaky Bean was where we had our first dinner out together? Sure, it was a different location, but it’s still special. This is like our song or something. Except it’s also a different menu. Same owner and name, so that counts. I realize I shared these sentimental feelings by talking like Archie Bunker as I vented my views on certain aspects of the Olympics. But, really--gender matters!

Edith

We had the first reservations of the night last Saturday at the Bean. And we still got there early. It's not what you think, though. Yes, I am nearing 40 but I'm not dining out at 5:30 on a Saturday for no good reason. We had tickets to a show at Red Rocks that night. So there. Kung Pao! So we get there early and it's raining so they let us in early. 1.75 points for chivalry. While waiting we took in the atmosphere of their new digs. What an ideal space at 15^th and Wynkoop. They were able to secure a lease in one of the most prime, desired spots in Denver on the corner ground floor of the former Saddlery building. This space is full of windows; open and spacious with a cozy loft feel. Cozy is not an easy feeling to accomplish in a loft. I like the chandeliers made from silverware, the huge oval bar, the open kitchen and all of the unique antique fixtures, half of which I cannot identify.

This space is a departure from their former space on 33^rd and Tejon, which was a mere 4 blocks from my front door. My husband and I were some of the first Squeaky Bean customers and we fell in love instantly (with the food, that is, I'm not going all 50 Shades here). The former space was cozy in a whole different way – as in small. Cafe small. So small, in fact, that they were operating without a kitchen! The chef was able to make delectable magic with a hot plate and a whole lot of genius. When we heard they were moving and would actually have access to a kitchen we couldn't wait for the possibilities. It's bittersweet, really. We loved having them in the neighborhood and are proud to say we knew them when - when our fellow diners were Highland folk, rather than the LODO crowd with tight pants and fake bulges. It feels like seeing a great band in a dive bar with 20 other people and then seeing them again when everyone else has caught on and they're playing a stadium show. I'm that kind of asshole. I only drink microbrews.

Mikey

Personally, I like arriving at a restaurant when it’s easy to find a parking spot and we get our pick of tables in the still empty room. I realize for some this might feel like the beginning of the end. Based on the space alone, I already like this Squeaky Bean better than the first one. It’s so grown up. I love, love, love the cookbooks attached to the menus! Such great conversation starters.

Edith

Once seated, our concise menu arrived clipped to old cookbooks. Those 1960s and '70s style cookbooks. The waitstaff really loves it when you try and order a Campbell's soup dish out of the Campbell's cookbook. They nearly fall down laughing. Actually, our server didn't have too much of a sense of humor. I tip extra when the waitstaff laughs at my jokes, even if it's more of a sympathy laugh. The menu is divided into three categories: Vegetables, Seafood and Meats. Each of the three sections starts with small plates. The plates get bigger (and more expensive) the farther down the list you go. An entree runs about $25. You're paying for quality here, not quantity. Squeaky Bean is a restaurant where you will have a very unique dining experience with complex flavors that are creatively prepared with high quality, local ingredients. You won't find a big 'ole bowl of anything here.

Mikey

That cheese cart rolling around the dinner room is total cuteness. I should have tried that. Bring back the olives in the curry sauce! Alas, the menu only made me wish I was a foodie. But the truth is, I am not. I may not be grown up enough to dine here.

Edith

I am going to call my dinner companion Mikey, after that kid in the commercial who wouldn't eat anything and then died of eating pop rocks and soda. Mikey took one look at the menu and said she didn't want any of it. But then said 'oh, o.k. I'll have the chicken'. There is a name for someone who eats only fish, someone who eats only meat, and someone who eats only vegetables. What's the name for someone who doesn't like anything but food truck tacos? The chicken arrived and she wouldn't eat that either. She was eyeing my scrumptious pork loin and I had my fork poised to stab her the second she went for it. Luckily, it didn't come to that. My pork was perfectly prepared with peaches and cooked fruit redeming burnt onion jus. I enjoyed both the corn panna cotta (aka corn log) and mustard greens. I ate half of Mikey's chicken and enjoyed that as well. The chicken was a very innovative twist on fried chicken with a fried skin garnish that my husband has probably had dreams about. Maybe that's why he drools in his sleep. The chicken comes with a fabulous food trifecta: avacado mousse stuffed artichoke. It's like a Ding Dong for food dorks. We passed on the ingenious cheese cart, although, every single cheese sounded divine. And those rolls, oh those rolls!! Sex rolls is what they were. Buttery and truffley and garlicky and cheesy.

Mikey

I love how gracefully you handled it when I asked if we could switch entrees. See? I need a tiny drink and I’m a fussy eater. Where’s my bib? I’m sorry…that friend chicken was not for me. I did not understand that artichoke with like, what? Reconstituted artichoke on it? At least that was edible.

Another Gary Coleman, please! Fitting perfectly with my Archie Bunker persona of the evening, the menu offers a small beer of five ounces only called the “Gary Coleman” after the diminutive TV actor and celebrity. For one who rarely drinks, this little sipper was right on the money.

Edith

For dessert I ordered a plum cake (I curse you again, cooked fruit!). It was yummy but not as good as Mikey's Fluffernutter. Does that sound weird? It ain't, unless you think peanut butter, marshmallow and caramel are weird. It's heaven in my mouth. Seriously good. Rich as hell but good. On another visit I sat at the dessert bar, watching all of the desserts come out. As soon as I saw gold flecks – seriously, folks, gold flecks – sprinkled onto the Gilded Cherry dessert I knew I had to have it. It was more beautiful than anything. Slidey but lovely. Then I squinted my eyes and saw that it resembled a gilded turd on my plate. Every restaurant has a turd dessert. Don't believe me? Maybe I'll start a new blog just to prove it. Coming soon: turddessert.com

Mikey

Usually dessert can save it for me, but again, no. That Fluffer Nutter was rich beyond reason.

At least by the time we left, I felt that the waiter did not hate us and might have just been nervous. He had a way of seeming annoyed if we were not ready to order or had a question about the menu. I almost apologized to him once. He should have thanked us for having some people to practice on before the night got busy.

Edith

And, oh yeah, Bill Murray ate here.

Mikey

Décor: Fabulous. So curious to see inside of the old saddlery building that I’ve walked by a million times in the past 20 or so years. Those huge wooden beam ceilings are gorgeous.

Waitstaff: No new BFFs here.

Food: I’ve never wanted to be a foodie so bad in my whole life.

Saucy Talk: Size matters. Bigger isn’t always better.

Tip: If you want to be surprised by your fried chicken—as in the skin comes as a separate garnish, for starters—then this is the place for you!