Paxia to the Maxia

For our next review we bring you:

Paxia

4001 Tejon St. Denver

720-583-6860

http://www.paxiadenver.com/

Princess Hilltop:
Paxia: Not a feminine product or an antidepressant. I just wanted to be clear on that because the name lends itself to an idea of a product that could make you feel more fresh, more feminine, more optimistic. Fresh and optimistic, I will give you, Paxia. Maybe even a tad feminine. The décor is lovely. I actually snapped a photo of the chandeliers in the private dining room for my Pinterest boards. Studies show that looking at chandeliers while eating food makes the food more delicious. And by studies, I mean popular opinion. And by popular I mean mine.

Princess Prudence:
Dear Readers: We have a Special Guest Alert. When we started this restaurant blog a few months ago, we discussed the idea of inviting random guests to join us—would it be local foodie celebs? Husbands? Girlfriends? Surprise, it is Princess Hilltop's daughter, Miss Marvelous. And while she is still too young to write (or type) her review for this blog, this gal is a member of the Clean Plate Club! No complaints from her. She gobbled up those chips with a little salsa like a hungry toddler at lunchtime! Her cheese quesadilla disappeared right before our eyes and at least half her milk in that cute giraffe cup (wisely covered with a lid) was nearly finished….with an easily mop-able amount sprinkled on the floor.

Princess Hilltop:
When I first heard about Paxia, my second thought (second to pills and tampons) was “Really? Another Mexican restaurant in Highland?” We need another Mexican restaurant like we need another crazy old man in the GOP primaries. I was pleasantly surprised, however, to find that Paxia really does fill a niche in our corner of the world. Many Mexican restaurants in the neighborhood are small, mom and pop run taqueria joints. I'm all for it but we have plenty. On the opposite end of the spectrum is Lola, which serves more upscale Coastal Mexican to Lodo / Lohi hipsters and professionals who go as much for the cocktails and hopping bar patio as they go for the food. Paxia is somewhere in the middle of this spectrum, without being a chain.

Princess Prudence:
Now for a little review…but first a little history: Paxia is in the Highlands neighborhood where we both live, workout, send our children to school, and do a lot of dining out. Since its founding, the collective Highlands neighborhood (historically distinct neighborhoods such as Highland, Potter Highlands, Sunnyside, and more, are now typically referred to as the Highlands) has been dominated by different ethnic groups. The Italians left perhaps the most distinctive mark around here and a few vestiges remain in local eateries. Later the area was predominantly Hispanic, and still is, in part. There are several Latin American, South American and Mexican food restaurants in the Highlands neighborhood and the local buzz has been that Paxia is a most welcome addition.

Princess Hilltop:
I have a confession to make here before talking about the food. I went to lunch with Prudence, yes. But then the next night I returned for dinner with my husband. I find it impossible to review Paxia on the basis of lunch only now that I've experienced dinner as well. Sorry, Your Highness, I kind of cheated on you. Please forgive me. It meant nothing, I promise, and it will never happen again. I was drunk (really I was a little bit after two glasses of wine). The delicious enchiladas you ordered made me do it so it was your fault, really, when you think about it.

Princess Prudence:
Finally, the promised review: Paxia is Mexican food, not Tex-Mex. I’m not craving it like I do Tex-Mex. The green chile on my chicken enchiladas had a fresh tangy taste, and the salsa served with warm tortilla chips also had a nice zing in every bite. We split a trio of tamales—each one double the size of my wrist—that were plenty flavorful but not one stood out for me. Ordinarily I consider dessert an essential part of my meal, but since it was lunch and we had to set a good example for Miss Marvelous, we skipped it. I won’t become a regular at Paxia, but will probably come back for dinner and to try a “Prickly Margarita” (made with cactus juice) and to check out the dessert menu.

Princess Hilltop:
Lunch: I think I am much more enthusiastic about Paxia than Her Royal Highness. I really, really enjoyed my lunch (and enjoyed dinner even more). I had ceviche which was delicious but not the best I've ever had. But once you've eaten ceviche in Peru with a view of the sea, it is unlikely that you'll get comparable ceviche in the middle of the U.S. I don't fault Paxia for that. The Mile High Salad was piled a mile high with shredded carrots, chicken and cabbage. Sort of a Mexican slaw with a slightly tangy (but not too!) sauce. Rather than a side dish, it can easily stand in for an entree salad that is light, simple and delicious. Finally, a Mexican restaurant with a truly healthy option! We split the trio of Tamales, my favorite of which was the pork. I loved Prudence's Enchiladas Verde. So much in fact that I took them home. The Verde sauce was addicting! The perfect savory zing.

Dinner: (Pru, just skip this part) I returned the following night to a packed dining room. Apparently, it was only their second busy night since opening in August. They were obviously not quite prepared for the onslaught so I am more than willing to let choppy service slide. The food made up for the frenzy. I usually skip the chips but these are so thin, crunchy and just salty enough, the salsa the right kind of spice and freshness that I threw caution to the wind, arteries be damned! I even requested an extra basket of chips with our guacamole, which was divine. Now this is the kind of guacamole I could base a religion on (or at least a cult). Table side fresh with just the few basic ingredients; and none of them too much to overpower the avocado. Perfection. My husbands Poblano Cream soup was amazing, especially for a guy who doesn't like poblanos. I don't know what he was thinking but I'm glad he was thinking it. He also had the traditional entree, Chiles en Nogada. Who knew chiles, raisins (which, in my opinion ruin everything) nuts, beef and pomegranate could all meld so wonderfully into mouthwatering bites. I ordered the salmon in plantain leaf. Wonderful flavor. It had just the right amount of smokey chipotle sauce that soaked into the very appropriately portioned rice. The plantains were some of the best I've ever had (including my travels in Central and South America). The salmon had wonderful flavor but could have been improved with a little less time on the grill. It was a huge fillet. I would have been happier with a smaller portion and a lighter texture. We didn't go in for dessert or signature cocktails but we will next time. Next time for sure.

Princess Prudence:
At least I don't brag about it when I go back to a restaurant with someone else, if you get my fresh and optimistic meaning.


Décor: Bright and cheery with cozy fireplace
Waitstaff: Seriously, was the waiter the owner?
Food: Mexican, not Tex-Mex
Saucy Talk: Puh-leez, there is a young child here!
Tip: Appetizers are ample, so one to share is plenty if everyone is also getting an entree