Squeaky Bean
1500 Wynkoop #101
Denver, CO . 80202
303-623-2665
www.thesqueakybean.net
Mikey
I’m going to get all gushy
here. Remember that the Squeaky Bean was where we had our first
dinner out together? Sure, it was a different location, but it’s
still special. This is like our song or something. Except it’s also
a different menu. Same owner and name, so that counts. I realize I
shared these sentimental feelings by talking like Archie Bunker as I
vented my views on certain aspects of the Olympics. But,
really--gender matters!
Edith
We had the first
reservations of the night last Saturday at the Bean. And we still
got there early. It's not what you think, though. Yes, I am nearing
40 but I'm not dining out at 5:30 on a Saturday for no good reason.
We had tickets to a show at Red Rocks that night. So there. Kung
Pao! So we get there early and it's raining so they let us in early.
1.75 points for chivalry. While waiting we took in the atmosphere of
their new digs. What an ideal space at 15th and Wynkoop.
They were able to secure a lease in one of the most prime, desired
spots in Denver on the corner ground floor of the former Saddlery
building. This space is full of windows; open and spacious with a
cozy loft feel. Cozy is not an easy feeling to accomplish in a loft.
I like the chandeliers made from silverware, the huge oval bar, the
open kitchen and all of the unique antique fixtures, half of which I
cannot identify.
This
space is a departure from their former space on 33rd and
Tejon, which was a mere 4 blocks from my front door. My husband and
I were some of the first Squeaky Bean customers and we fell in love
instantly (with the food, that is, I'm not going all 50 Shades here).
The former space was cozy in a whole different way – as in small.
Cafe small. So small, in fact, that they were operating without a
kitchen! The chef was able to make delectable magic with a hot plate
and a whole lot of genius. When we heard they were moving and would
actually have access to a kitchen we couldn't wait for the
possibilities. It's bittersweet, really. We loved having them in
the neighborhood and are proud to say we knew them when - when our
fellow diners were Highland folk, rather than the LODO crowd with
tight pants and fake bulges. It feels like seeing a great band in a
dive bar with 20 other people and then seeing them again when
everyone else has caught on and they're playing a stadium show. I'm
that kind of asshole. I only drink microbrews.
Mikey
Personally,
I like arriving at a restaurant when it’s easy to find a parking
spot and we get our pick of tables in the still empty room. I realize
for some this might feel like the beginning of the end. Based on the
space alone, I already like this Squeaky Bean better than the first
one. It’s so grown up. I love, love, love the cookbooks attached to
the menus! Such great conversation starters.
Edith
Once
seated, our concise menu arrived clipped to old cookbooks. Those
1960s and '70s style cookbooks. The waitstaff really loves it when
you try and order a Campbell's soup dish out of the Campbell's
cookbook. They nearly fall down laughing. Actually, our server
didn't have too much of a sense of humor. I tip extra when the
waitstaff laughs at my jokes, even if it's more of a sympathy laugh.
The menu is divided into three categories: Vegetables, Seafood and
Meats. Each of the three sections starts with small plates. The
plates get bigger (and more expensive) the farther down the list you
go. An entree runs about $25. You're paying for quality here, not
quantity. Squeaky Bean is a restaurant where you will have a very
unique dining experience with complex flavors that are creatively
prepared with high quality, local ingredients. You won't find a big
'ole bowl of anything here.
Mikey
That cheese cart rolling
around the dinner room is total cuteness. I should have tried that.
Bring back the olives in the curry sauce! Alas, the menu only made me
wish I was a foodie. But the truth is, I am not. I may not be grown
up enough to dine here.
Edith
I am
going to call my dinner companion Mikey, after that kid in the
commercial who wouldn't eat anything and then died of eating pop
rocks and soda. Mikey took one look at the menu and said she didn't
want any of it. But then said 'oh, o.k. I'll have the chicken'.
There is a name for someone who eats only fish, someone who eats only
meat, and someone who eats only vegetables. What's the name for
someone who doesn't like anything but food truck tacos? The chicken
arrived and she wouldn't eat that either. She was eyeing my
scrumptious pork loin and I had my fork poised to stab her the second
she went for it. Luckily, it didn't come to that. My pork was
perfectly prepared with peaches and cooked fruit redeming burnt onion
jus. I enjoyed both the corn panna cotta (aka corn log) and mustard
greens. I ate half of Mikey's chicken and enjoyed that as well. The
chicken was a very innovative twist on fried chicken with a fried
skin garnish that my husband has probably had dreams about. Maybe
that's why he drools in his sleep. The chicken comes with a fabulous
food trifecta: avacado mousse stuffed artichoke. It's like a Ding
Dong for food dorks. We passed on the ingenious cheese cart,
although, every single cheese sounded divine. And those rolls, oh
those rolls!! Sex rolls is what they were. Buttery and truffley and
garlicky and cheesy.
Mikey
I love
how gracefully you handled it when I asked if we could switch
entrees. See? I need a tiny drink and I’m a fussy eater. Where’s
my bib? I’m sorry…that friend chicken was not for me. I did not
understand that artichoke with like, what? Reconstituted artichoke on
it? At least that was edible.
Another
Gary Coleman, please! Fitting perfectly with my Archie Bunker persona
of the evening, the menu offers a small beer of five ounces only
called the “Gary Coleman” after the diminutive TV actor and
celebrity. For one who rarely drinks, this little sipper was right on
the money.
Edith
For
dessert I ordered a plum cake (I curse you again, cooked fruit!). It
was yummy but not as good as Mikey's Fluffernutter. Does that sound
weird? It ain't, unless you think peanut butter, marshmallow and
caramel are weird. It's heaven in my mouth. Seriously good. Rich
as hell but good. On another visit I sat at the dessert bar,
watching all of the desserts come out. As soon as I saw gold flecks
– seriously, folks, gold flecks – sprinkled onto the Gilded
Cherry dessert I knew I had to have it. It was more beautiful than
anything. Slidey but lovely. Then I squinted my eyes and saw that
it resembled a gilded turd on my plate. Every restaurant has a turd
dessert. Don't believe me? Maybe I'll start a new blog just to
prove it. Coming soon: turddessert.com
Mikey
Usually
dessert can save it for me, but again, no. That Fluffer Nutter was
rich beyond reason.
At
least by the time we left, I felt that the waiter did not hate us and
might have just been nervous. He had a way of seeming annoyed if we
were not ready to order or had a question about the menu. I almost
apologized to him once. He should have thanked us for having some
people to practice on before the night got busy.
Edith
And, oh
yeah, Bill Murray ate here.
Mikey
Décor: Fabulous. So curious to see
inside of the old saddlery building that I’ve walked by a million
times in the past 20 or so years. Those huge wooden beam ceilings are
gorgeous.
Waitstaff: No new BFFs here.
Food: I’ve never wanted to be a
foodie so bad in my whole life.
Tip: If
you want to be surprised by your fried chicken—as in the skin comes
as a separate garnish, for starters—then this is the place for you!
